Soto Japanese Restaurant

Note: The below review was controversial. We remind you that it details one particular couple's experience on one night; many diners have had a fabulous experience at Soto (read the Village Voice and Time Out NY reviews). We urge the reader to visit Soto himself and make his own informed decision. We had to disable comments because they got out of hand.

My companion and I really wanted to love Soto. We're always thrilled when a new Japanese restaurant opens, and we were excited to try the innovative cuisine of Chef Sotohiro Kosugi - so excited that we dined at his restaurant just one day after it opened.

Unfortunately, we were to leave Soto with both empty stomachs and empty wallets.

The evening started out promising; we marveled at the transformation of the old Ony Noodle Shop space into an elegant room with stone floors and blond wood. Although the omakase was not yet available, the waitress happily made some recommendations: shima aji carpaccio, dobin mushi, uni sugomori and langoustines.

We were under the mistaken impression that the menu was divided into appetizers and entrees. All portions turned out to be the size of a small appetizer. So, after we were finished with the four recommended dishes, we felt compelled to order four more, as well as some assorted sushi. This was to cost us a pretty penny!

The broiled langoustine, split in two, squeezed with lime and covered with shiitake mayonnaise, was delicious. Dobin mushi was a light, yuzu-laced broth served in a ceramic teapot in which floated a piece of sea bream, a shrimp, a shiitake cap, two bright green gingko nuts and a leaf of mitsuba. We really loved the uni sugomori: bright orange, fresh sea urchin mixed with yellow quail yolk was a rich delight. Chu-toro tartare was topped with a velvety avocado mousse, and gindara sakekasu (black cod marinated in sake lees) was sweet and tasty. The presentation of shima aji carpaccio was beautiful; 12 slices of paper-thin yellowjack tuna were arranged to look like a many-petaled flower, and the fish was drizzled with ginger-truffle soy sauce. Tempura was a delicate (and small) array of Japanese eggplant, shrimp, squash and lotus root. But although this sounds like a lot of food, it wasn't!

Still hungry, we raided the sushi bar, ordering fresh sea eel, seared salmon, salmon roe and a tuna roll. We were surprised at the dyed pink ginger and commercial soy sauce... places like Sushi Yasuda are sticklers for those ingredients.

In conclusion, although we found the dishes artfully presented and inventive, we would have eaten better (and probably spent less) at Jewel Bako, En, Megu or Sushi Yasuda. (And we we miss filling up on big bowls of ramen at Ony!)

Edited to add: I've apparently ruffled a few Atlantans' feathers with this review. I in no way intended to offend, and I wish Mr. Kosugi the best of luck, as he does have an exquisite touch with cooked foods. Obviously, my reference to Ony is somewhat facetious, as I realize Soto is a high-end restaurant. However, if a diner is going to spend $200+ on a meal, he ought not to leave hungry. And if a chef is going to serve sushi at $7 a piece, that piece of sushi deserves undyed ginger and artisanal shoyu. (I am puzzled at the lack of a sushi or sashimi "set" as is customary in many sushi bars.) Finally, I in no way claim to be an expert on Japanese food, but I have spent considerable time in Japan, and have eaten at almost every Japanese restaurant in NYC. It's my favorite cuisine!

Soto: 357 Sixth Ave., (212) 414-3088.